hmm, memed may have misdirected you
I'd say Nova is the man to speak to.
Or if you want a very simple counter like the one on my webpage (very simple though), there are sites such as
www.compteur.com (in French) where you register an account and they give you a link to a PHP image of a counter that increments itself each time a browser hits the image... you're left to include a link to this image in your webpage (that's what I did).
If you want something more complicated, yeah, ask Nova rather